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If it leaks out, the clutch will damage and ultimately fail. fan blades. You ought to be able to audibly discover when the fan clutch engages, with an accompanying rush of air. At idle, as engine temperature increases, a thermal fan clutch will engage at a specific temperature. Torque-limiting fan clutches will disengage at a particular engine speed.


As engine temperature level increases, search for a sudden dive in fan speed. Some electronic testing and understanding of a scan tool might be required to diagnose electronic fan clutches and the sensors utilized to figure out fan engagement. The internal combustion engine produces a great deal of heat, which the engine cooling system is charged with moderating. fan blades.




On the other hand, too much heat can be a big problem, melting non-metal engine parts and rendering lubricating oil ineffective. An overheating engine could literally bond itself into scrap metal. If your fan clutch has spoiled, replace it as quickly as possible to prevent engine damage. While you're at it, consider the efficiency and fuel economy advantages of updating to electrical cooling fans.


The state of California requires that this warning be posted for individuals buying products that live in California. CAUTION: Products might contain one or more chemicals understood in the State of California to cause cancer and/or abnormality or other reproductive damage (fan blades). For additional information, visit www. P65Warnings.ca. gov Fan to clutch: 17 ft lbs Clutch to water pump: 41 ft pounds Engine fan clutch on recreational vehicle 8.


You're crawling along in traffic and, in spite of the reality that your pickup bed is empty, the coolant temp is annoyingly high. Then you realize that the air conditioning unit is blowing warm. You turn off the a/c and open the windows simply as the traffic breaks and you accelerate. The coolant temperature drops.

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In the house, you raise the hood, puzzled. The coolant level is ideal on, no pipes are dripping and the accessory belt is undamaged. You begin the engine, let it idle and make a visual examination. There's no indication of belt slippage, however the radiator cooling fan barely seems to be spinning.


If your truck resembles most, the cooling fan is mounted to its drive pulley-block through a clutch. Clutch fans operate at various speeds under various conditions to help minimize drain on the engine and to conserve fuel. When the engine is hot, the clutch fan runs almost as quick as the engine.


The fan clutch operation is controlled by a valve that Click Here is opened and nearby a thermostatic spring. The valve manages the flow of a viscous silicone fluid in between chambers in the clutch assembly. When the engine is cold, the clutch is essentially disengaged, which is why the fan runs at its slowest compared to the engine's speed.


The hotter air triggers the thermostatic spring to loosen up and open the valve. Silicone fluid from the reservoir chamber flows into the main chamber, engaging the clutch, and the fan spins faster (though it's still a little slower than the engine). A damaged or weakened thermostatic spring in the clutch hub can not be replaced or repaired Silicone fluid oozing past the bearing seal implies the clutch should be replaced.


To verify the medical diagnosis, start with this basic test: Spin the fan as hard as you can on an engine that has actually not been started that day. If the fan rotates more than 5 times, you can wager the clutch is bad. You ought to feel some resistance and the fan might spin as much as three times, depending on the ambient temperature level.

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You need to do more tests. A couple of late-model pickups and SUVs, such as Ford diesels and the Chevy Pioneer and others with the 4. 2-liter inline 6, have actually an electronically managed valve for the fan clutch. In these vehicles, the silicone fluid doesn't drain pipes back over night, so the fan may barely spin on a cold engine.


If your fan clutch is not running the method it should, it's likely due to a fluid leak or a bad thermostatic spring or valve. When a leakage takes place, it's at the bearing seal, at the center rear of the clutch. Run your finger around the joint and if you get a huge dollop of black goo, that's silicone fluid that has actually leaked from the real estate.


A light smear of silicone fluid might be normal seepage-- no seal is ideal. Certainly, if a considerable amount of fluid is missing, the clutch will not spin as fast as it should. When it comes to the other potential culprit, a lot of failing thermostatic springs open the valve too soon. This premature check out this site clutch engagement means the fan More about the author spins faster than it should, however that doesn't make the engine or a/c run hot.






Let's say spinning the fan didn't reveal a problem, there's no leak and you believe the spring is all right. You could still have a bad valve. Here's how to learn. You'll need to check the temperature of the air moved by the fan utilizing a probe-type thermometer that checks out to a minimum of 220 F, ideally to about 250 F.


Discover a joint in the fan shroud with adequate flex to let you insert the probe without getting it in the path of the fan. If necessary drill a small hole in the shroud. Run the engine at fast idle. Examine the engine temperature level gauge or your scan tool. If it's a hot day, the coolant temp will increase.

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Air temperature in the shroud must remain in the 150 F to 190 F range. There are some exceptions-- for instance, there are Chrysler products that might have a clutch fan rated at as much as 205 F. Note: Do not attempt to take an instant reading. A traditional thermometer, even the probe type, takes at least a number of minutes to support.